Thursday, March 29, 2012

Godey's Lady's Book - June 1875

Another month!  June!  It's getting warmer...but all the ladies are wearing just as much clothing!  I went to Old Sturbridge Village one very warm summer day and was told by one of the historic interpreters, a woman in a very warm kitchen with a roaring fire upon which she was preparing some 1830-style food, that people assume the more clothes you wear, the hotter you are.  The reality, she said, is that in former times, wearing layers of light linen and cotton clothing actually kept you cooler.  She said she was quite comfortable in her layers.  An interesting side note...other interesting notes in this month's fashions, a beaded, braided belt, an effort to bring garnets back into fashion, and the proper management of the cumbersome but fashionable demi-train!

Thanks as always to the incomparable Providence Athenaeum for the gracious provision of these images and text.

By permission of the Providence Athenaeum

Figure 1-Walking dress of two shades of brown silk.  The front breadth is formed of kilt plaits; the back breadths are plain.  Apron overskirt and sash of the darkest shade of silk.  Basque bodice, trimmed with the dark silk.  Chip hat, trimmed with silk and flowers.
Figure 2-Evening dress of two shades of blue silk.  The front of skirt is made of diamonds of the dark silk, with the lighter silk between them, plaiting at the sides; plain skirt in the back, with sash to correspond with the front.  Low corsage, buttoned up the front, with lace around the neck.  Hair arranged in finger puffs, with strings of pearls twisted around.
Figure 3-Visiting dress of two shades of purple.  The front breadth is formed of puffs and plaitings of the light shade upon the dark; the sides have pieces of the dark buttoned over; the back breadths are trimmed with a plaited ruffle, the upper part arranged in a pouf.  Basque bodice of the dark shade, with trimming and sleeves of the lighter.  Bonnet of the two shades of crape, trimmed with feathers and half wreath of leaves and berries.
Figure 4-Dinner dress of green silk.  The front breadth of skirt trimmed with puffs and white lace; the side and back breadths are plaited, the side ones, as well as the bodice, being trimmed with bands of velvet and velvet bows.  Basque bodice, surplice in the neck, plaited to match the skirt, and trimmed with lace and velvet; open sleeves, trimmed to correspond.
Figure 5-Evening dress of white muslin over pink silk.  The pink silk underskirt is trimmed with a plaiting.  Long apron overskirt of the muslin, and trained skirt in the back, trimmed with a  row of Mechlin lace, and a thick roll of muslin banded with pink ribbon; garlands of flowers upon each side.  Low corsage and short sleeves; the corsage of pink silk in the front, plaited white muslin in the back, and trimmed with lace.  Hair arranged in curls, with flowers to match those on dress arranged through them.
Figure 6-Dress for girl of six years old, made of gray summer Cashmere.  The skirt is trimmed with two ruffles bound with pink silk.  Basque bodice, trimmed with pink silk, and sash.  Gray chip hat, trimmed, with gray and pink.

Providence Athenaeum

First Side
Figures 1 and 2-Front and back view of black silk house dress, made with shirred front, and sides divided by bands of silk or velvet; quadruple box-plait in the back of skirt.  Basque bodice, trimmed to correspond.
Figures 3 and 4-Front and back view of walking dress, made of gray silk; it is made with two skirts and a basque.  The underskirt is trimmed with a kilt plaiting on the front breadth, with bands of darker silk above.  The back is trimmed with a ruffle with a shirred puff above it.  The overskirt and basque are trimmed with the darker silk.
Figures 5 and 6-Front and back view of walking dress.  The underskirt is of brown silk, trimmed with three knife plaitings; the sleeves are of the same silk, trimmed to correspond.  The overskirt and sleeveless basque are of brown and gray plaid woolen goods, trimmed with brown silk.
Figure 7-Bonnet of gray chip, trimmed with gray velvet, feathers, and ribbon; lace ruche inside the brim, with pink ribbon bow and flowers in it.
Figure 8-Bonnet of white chip, faced with brown velvet, trimmed with blue silk and velvet, and feathers of the two colors; blue-bird in the face, and white illusion.
Figure 9-Lady's chemise, made square in the neck with puff with embroidered ruffle upon each side of it.
Figure 10-Infant's bib, made of piqué, trimmed with a muslin ruffle.
Figure 11-Sleeve for a silk dress of two shades of color.  The sleeve is of the darker shade and the cuff of the lighter, while the fringe and buttons are a combination of the two shades.  Above the cuff there are folds of silk, which terminate at the elbow with a bow of the two colors.
Figure 12-Brown chip hat, trimmed with brown silk and scarlet poppies, brown feather at left side.
Figure 13-Velvet necklet, with gilt ornaments.
Figure 14-Fraise of loops of black velvet and pink ribbon, with lace to be worn inside, fastened by a bird.

Providence Athenaeum
Second Side
Figure 1-Evening dress of pale blue silk, made with a sleeveless basque of matelassé, of a slightly darker shade; the neck and sleeves are trimmed with Mechlin lace.  Hair arranged in puffs and curls, with blue convolvulus arranged in it.
Figure 2-Dress of gray silk, trimmed with pink; white lace fichu.  Hair arranged in coil in the back with two long curls, and pink ribbon bow at the side.
Figure 3-Evening dress of pink silk, cut square in the neck; short sleeves, trimmed with black velvet and white lace.  Hair arranged in finger puffs, with tortoise-shell comb, and velvet band and flowers.
FIgure 4-Evening dress of white silk, with low corsage and short sleeves; bertha of white lace, wreath of roses trimming corsage.  Hair arranged in puffs, with half wreath surrounding them.
Figure 5-Fichu, made of silk to match the dress with which it is to be worn, or of a contrasting color; it is trimmed with lace.
Figure 6-Fichu and ruff for the neck, made of blue silk, trimmed with black lace and a narrow chain-stitched border; lace ruche inside around the throat.
Figure 7-White silk fan, painted with colored flowers, and edged with white lace.
Figure 8-Side and back combs, with ornamented tops of cut jets.
FIgure 9-Morning cap of white muslin, trimmed with a row of lace, black velvet band and loops.
Figure 10-Bège Cashmere costume for a girl of four.  The skirt is bordered with a plaited flounce, sewn on with a heading.  Round tunic, likewise edged with a plaiting, and looped up at the side with a bow and buckle.  High basque bodice, with coat-shaped sleeves.
Figures 11 and 12-Linen collar and cuff, fastened by a band of colored linen and buttons.
Figure 13-In our present illustration we give designs for a novel and beautiful style of handkerchief border.  The borders are of batiste écru, or, if intended for mourning, can be embroidered in black and white, the centre of the handkerchief being of fine cambric.  The embroidery is worked partly with colored thread or zephyr wool; partly with white embroidery cotton in satin stitch.  The outlines are worked around with buttonhole stitch.
Figure 14-White muslin morning cap, trimmed with lace; pink silk ruche, and bow and ends.
Figure 15-Suit for boy of four, made of dark-brown Cashmere; kilt skirt; sacque, trimmed with silk braid.
Figure 16-White cambric dress for child of three years, covered with English embroidery; it can be worn over an under slip of blue or pink silk, if desired.
Figures 17 and 18-Waistband of beads.  The beads are threaded on strong thread in equal lengths, and three rows for each strip.  Two sizes of beads are used, the middle row being larger than the others.  Figure 18 shows the mode of arranging the rows; these are then plaited together.  The band is finished with a ribbon bow; loops of beads and a swivel to hold the fan.
Figure 19-Costume for a girl of four years, made of gray Cashmere; kilt skirt, and sleeveless basque.  The skirt is trimmed with a band of blue silk, and the basque is made of it.
Figures 20 and 21-Brooch and earring of Bohemian garnets.  Fifty years ago garnets were extensively used for jewelry, but in recent times more precious stones have taken their place.  An attempt was made at the Vienna Exhibition to revive the taste of the public for garnet ornaments, and the Bohemian jewellers displayed many trinkets of this kind exquisitely designed and set.  Our illustrations represent some fine specimens, which may show that the brilliant red stone has been unjustly neglected.  As a comparatively cheap and effective gem, it certainly deserves the preference before colored paste.  The precious or Oriental garnet, from the River Syrian, in Pegu, however, is still much esteemed, its lustre and beauty placing it above all others.  But en cabochon it is called carbuncle; and another variety, from Siberia, is known as "gooseberry garnet."
Figure 22-Jet necklet.  The outside contour of this necklet is composed of several rows of small jet beads stitched together.  In the inside, the seven rows, which mount as a ladder upon the bodice, consist of single rows of beads, increasing in length as they ascend; while the double row, from which the cross is suspended, encircles the throat.  The necklet terminates with tassels of jet beads.
Figures 23 and 24-Front and back view of dress of girl of eight years, made of écru-colored serge, trimmed with one plaited ruffle on the lower skirt, with buttons fastening the plaits, overskirt and basque, with passementerie ornaments upon it, and up the front of the skirt.  Sash fastening overskirt in the back.
Figure 25-Boy's suit for boy of four years, made of dark-blue serge, and trimmed with braid and buttons.  Sailor hat of straw.
Figure 26-Dress for girl of six years, made of écru-colored batiste; the skirt is trimmed with narrow kilt plantings.  The bodice is low, with a basque, edged around the neck and sleeves with a narrow worked edging.
Figure 27 and 28-Front and back views of girl's walking costume, made of gray bêge, one skirt trimmed with a deep shirred ruffle; basque bodice, trimmed with a fold.
Figure 29-Necklet of passementerie, studded over with fine jet beads.
Figure 30-Chatelaine bag for ball toilet.  The bag is made of white stiff net, and lined with white sarcenet.  It is then covered with blue convolvulus of delicate shades and varied foliage.  It is mounted on ribbon that matches the toilet in color.  The fastening is at the side under a tuft of convolvulus.
Figure 31-Black silk fan, lined with pink.


On Fashions for June
We have heard so much of plainer toilets being adopted, that we imagined this spring would see the change effected.  On the contrary, we hardly ever remember more variety, more luxury, and a greater quantity of material used in a single costume than at present. As the season advances, we see fewer startling changes than we imagined there would be when we looked upon the bewildering masses earlier in the season.  We see little else but plaids and checks for parts of costumes; cuirass bodices are universal.  Skirts box-plaited at the back have taken, in a great measure, the place of poufs; and tunics that drape the figure so closely in front as to make one suspect that under garments are reduced to the smallest possible number and proportions are the prevailing style.

Our ultra fashionables have adopted the plan of wearing extremely short white underskirts, and of having the lower part of their train skirts trimmed inside with flounces of white muslin or cambric, so as to banish the long white skirt entirely.  This is not a bad plan, as the lining moves with the dress, which is not the case with the underskirt.  Demi trains have superseded the all round skirts, and all drapery about the skirt is soft and abundant.  Not a vestige of crinoline, no more than if such an institution had never prevailed.  These demi trains are very inconvenient for the street, as we have always said, and even for getting into a carriage, and they are so tied back and banded with elastic that walking, and, above all, sitting down, are not the easy, careless movements of yore.  Some dressmakers give instructions as to the management of these demi trains.  The best manner of gathering up the train is to turn to the right, bending slightly backwards, and to take hold of the dress as far down as possible with the right hand.  When your straighten and stand upright again, the skirt will be slightly lifted, and thus become no longer than a short costume.  WHen you wish to let the skirt trail again, you must throw it back with a sweep of the right hand.  This will be found a much more graceful way of preserving the train from contact with the streets than by lifting it on each side with both hands.

1 comment:

  1. I just want to own one dress made like that........fascinating!!! xx