Wednesday, March 21, 2012

Godey's Lady's Book - May 1875

And here is May 1875--not coincidentally directly in line timing-wise with The Rebel Wife.  Augusta would have read this issue.  Some interesting things:  new hairstyles and references to the 17th century, very ugly Madras cottons, and the introduction of "beige".  Thanks as always to the sublime Providence Athenaeum.

By permission of the Providence Athenaeum.


Figure 1 - Dress of light ecru colored batiste; the skirt formed of lengthwise puffs smaller in the back than front of skirt.  The sleeves are made to correspond, only the puffs run around the arm; brown silk cuffs, and brown silk sleeveless jacket, double breasted.  Ecru-colored chip bonnet, trimmed with silk, feathers, and colored roses.

Figure 2 - House dress of gray silk, the front breadth trimmed with puffs, and plantings finished at the sides with bows.  The back has one puff and a plaiting and a long overskirt.  Blue silk body, trimmed with cord and ornaments.

Figure 3 - Evening dress of white and pink silk.  The underskirt is of the white silk, trimmed up the front and on the back of skirt with narrow lengthwise ruffles and pink ruches.  Low basque bodice and overskirt of pink silk, trimmed with white lace and black velvet.

Figure 4 - Dinner dress of green silk.  The front breadth is formed of kilt plaits, with bands of darker green silk, with ornaments at the ends crossing it.  The back breadths are ruffled to the waist.  The sides are trimmed with the darker silk, as are also the sleeves.  The bodice is a plain cuirass basque, with sleeveless basque of black lace over it.

Figure 5 - House dress of lilac silk, with the front breadth trimmed with narrow ruffles, the back breadths trimmed with a deep ruffle with a band of darker silk above it.  Overskirt at the sides and back.  Cuirass basque, cut surplice, with standing ruffs of white muslin inside.  Sleeve slightly open, and formed of lengthwise puffs.

Providence Athenaeum


First Side
Figure 1 - Dress of two shades of lilac silk.  The front breadth is trimmed with a deep kilt plaiting, the back breadths with a narrower one and ruffles.  The long apron in front is trimmed to simulate three skirts with the darker shade.  The jacket bodice is of the darker, trimmed with pockets, band and bows of the lighter.  White chip bonnet, trimmed with two shades of lilac.

Figure 2 - Dress for traveling, of gray tweed, made with long straight overskirt perfectly plain.  Basque jacket, open in the back of the skirt, with buttons and buttonholes down the sides.  It is trimmed with black braid, as are the seams of the back.  Gray straw hat, trimmed with bird and feather and silk.

Figure 3 - Walking dress of two shades of brown.  The underskirt is of silk, trimmed with five ruffles, and a pouf in the back.  The polonaise is of summer Cashmere, with a long apron front, and short back merely like a basque, trimmed with a band of silk.  Brown chip hat, trimmed with silk, long feather , and flower.

Figure 4 - Walking dress of gray and black silk.  The front breadth is puffed of the gray silk; the revers at the side are of the black; two black and two gray ruffles trim the back, the rest is of gray.  Black summer matelassé sack, trimmed with gray feather band.  Black hat, trimmed with gray.

Figure 5 - House dress of striped and plain silk.  The front breadth is of blue and gray striped silk, trimmed with two bias folds, with a band of gray feathers above them.  The back breadths are plaited; they, the sleeveless bodice and apron overskirt, are of plain gray.  The sleeves are striped, and are trimmed to match the overskirt with lace and feathers.

Figure 6 - Evening dress of pale green silk, made with one skirt, the sides trimmed with two rows of lace, and loops of wide ribbon and ends; deep basque bodice, cut surplice in the neck; short sleeves, trimmed with lace and ribbon loops and ends.

Figure 7 - Hat of gray chip, trimmed with gray silk, feather, and steel buckle.

Figure 8 - Bonnet of black lace, trimmed with long blue feather and ribbon.

Figure 9 - Bonnet of black chip, trimmed with green feather, ribbon, and black lace, pink roses inside the brim.

Figure 10 - Bonnet of white chip, trimmed with black velvet, feather and pink roses.

Figure 11 - Bonnet of brown crape, the crown covered with spotted net, and trimmed with ribbon and aigrette.

Providence Athenaeum

Second side
Figures 1 and 2 - Evening coiffures.  The front hair is cut short and curled à la Reine Henriette across the forehead.  Behind this a piece of hair is turned back over a frizette.  The side-pieces are also rolled back over frizettes, and the back hair is twisted into a knot, ending in a loose curl.  See fig. 2.

Figures 3 and 4 - Indoor coiffure.  Part the hair in the middle, comb it back, and arrange it on the head in loops over small frizettes.  The back hair is arranged in hanging plaits, which, if false, are headed by a bow of ribbon.  See figure 4 for back of coiffure.

Figure 5 - Bracelet of jet beads threaded on elastic and ornamented with jet medallions.

Figure 6 - Neck bow of pink crêpe de chine, white lace, and pearl buckles.

Figure 7 - Chemisette and standing ruff to wear with a surplice dress.

Figure 8 - Walking dress for little girl of five years oils, made with a cape of white piqué, and finished all around the edge with English embroidery.

Figure 9 - High buttoned boot of kid, stitched with white.

Figure 10 - Coronet of rosettes, made of jet beads, fastened on to a slender wreath of cut jet.

Figure 11 - Infants' long robe, trimmed with vandyked embroidery put on en tablier, and around the bottom.

Figure 12 - Apron of gray linen, braided with chain stitch of white thread, and surrounded with white worsted braid.

Figure 13 - White muslin apron.  Trimmed with a frill of the same material, and with white lace.  Above the frill is a vandyked trimming of batiste, trimmed to correspond.

Figure 14 - High kid shoe for house or street wear.

Figures 15 and 16 - Front and back view of jacket to correspond with.

Figure 17 - Boys' waistcoat and trousers of gray summer cloth, ornamented with braid and buttons.

Figure 18 - Bonnet of black chip, trimmed with a scarf of pale pink silk, feather and flower inside the face.

Figure 19 - Bonnet of white straw, trimmed with pale and dark blue ribbon and feather.

Figure 20 - Ornamental pearl pins for the hair.

Figure 21 - Ladies' chemise, with yoke, made with lengthwise insertion and tucks, with plaited pieces forming scallops coming below.

Figures 22 and 23 - Front and back view of morning dress, made of white or colored Cashmere, trimmed with one ruffle around the bottom of skirt, headed with two narrow standing ones, and two bands, which also trims the front cuffs and pocket.

On Fashions for May

As the new spring suits each daddy appear, there does not remain a doubt but that all overdresses, such as polonaises, redingotes, tabliers, and basque bodies, will be quadrille, as the French term it; in plain English, they will be checks or plaids, for squares have evidently taken he place of stripes.  Some few of the newest costumes are made entirely of the plaid material, but, for the most part, it is judiciously mixed with plain faille.  The plaids are not regular; they do not look like even checks; on the contrary, they are broken and crossed with lines, more like the plaid patterns on tartan scarfs than plain checks.  There is ag rest variety in the designs, and, as a rule, the checks are somewhat large; they are either a very dark color, with white, or else some shade of bêge.  A few contain three colors, such as brown and gray, with a prune stripe, pale blue, dark blue, and écru.  Some of the new plaid materials too closely resemble the patterns on Madras cotton handkerchiefs to be pretty; consequently care should be taken in selecting, as we can conscientiously say some of the goods seen are the ugliest we have ever had occasion to look at. The newest Lyons silks are fails of medium reps, and of very dark shades; mixed and eccentric colors have disappeared, and given place to more natural hues, browns and grays predominating decidedly in quantity.  The natural soft browns are called beige color, and these range from noisette to a creamy white tint.

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