Monday, March 12, 2012

Godey's Lady's Book - February 1875

Once I'm on a roll, I like to keep it rolling.  Here's February!  Hope you enjoy it!  Some of my favorites include the detailed description of a new and fashionable hairstyle, including images to help, and a very reluctant discussion of children's clothes in the Chitchat!  Huge thanks to the Providence Athenaeum for these materials from their collection!

By permission of the Providence Athenaeum


Figure 1 - Visiting dress of green gros grain silk, made with two skirts and basque bodice.  The lower skirt is trimmed with a kilt plaiting in the back, headed with a ruffle and band of the silk embroidered.  Apron overskirt, with sash ends trimmed with the same style of ruffle and band.  Basque bodice; open sleeves finished with a silk cord.  Green velvet bonnet, trimmed with feather, ribbon, and flowers.

Figure 2 - Walking dress of two shades of brown silk and Cashmere.  The underskirt is of the lightest shade of silk.  The overdress and bodice are of the darker shade of Cashmere, trimmed with fringe and passementerie.  Bonnet of velvet of the two shades, trimmed with a long feather.

Figure 3 - Dinner dress of two shades of plum-colored silk.  The underskirt is of the lighter; the front breadths trimmed with a knife plaiting of the darker silk; the back breadths with two ruffles, trimmed to correspond with the front.  Polonaise of the darker silk, with trimming of the lighter silk; light and dark ribbon sash ends and bows.

Figure 4 - Evening dress of two shades of blue silk.  The dress is composed entirely of the light, with the trimming of the darker.  The underskirt is trimmed with a kilt plaiting in alternate plaits of the two shades; the apron overskirt is composed of lengthwise puffs divided by ribbon bows, and finished with scallops and fringe at the edge; the sides are formed of folds of the two shades; pouf in the back; sash.  Jacket bodice; coat sleeves of the darker silk.

Figure 5 - Evening dress of pink silk, made with two skirts.  The lower one is formed of lengthwise puffs with two ruffles around the bottom of skirt.  The overskirt is apron front, puffed in the back, trimmed with Valenciennes lace and garlands of flowers.  Low corsage, with bretelles of lace and flowers; inner waist of muslin and lace.  Hair arranged in puffs, with flowers to match dress.

Figure 6 - Party dress for child of five years, made of white alpaca.  The front breadth is trimmed with bands of pink silk, the back breadths with a ruffle of the silk.  Pink silk overskirt, long at the sides and going up shorter in the back.  Waist trimmed with a bertha of pink silk.

Providence Athenaeum


First Side
Figure 1 - Visiting dress of black velvet.  The underskirt is plain; the polonaise is trimmed with lace and ribbon loops down the back of skirt, and is edged all around with lace.  Black velvet bonnet, trimmed with feather and pink roses.

Figure 2 - Walking dress of seal-brown camel's-hair, made with underskirt and polonaise, trimmed with fur fringe.  Bonnet of brown velvet, trimmed with feather, lace, and ribbon; spotted lace veil.  Muff to match the fur in fringe.

Figure 3 - This costume may be made either of blue serge or the lighter make of homespun.  The trimmings are black Titan braid and black japanned buttons.  The demi-fitting jacket opens slightly heart-shaped in front, and has an upright frill of the same lined with silk.  The pockets on the side pieces are lined with silk and trimmed with braid.  Braid is laid on the sleeve to simulate a deep cuff; a gathered flounce with heading borders the skirt, over which a tunic is draped.  The tunic is long in front and short at the back.   Hat of dark blue felt, trimmed with velvet and feather.

Figure 4 - Black silk and Cashmere costume.  The underskirt is of silk, trimmed with two box-plaitings.  The overskirt and sleeveless basque are of Cashmere braided all over; silk sleeves.  Black velvet hat, trimmed with silk and feather.

Figure 5 - Plum-colored silk and velvet costume.  The underskirt is of silk; the front breadth trimmed with a large box-plait and buttons; the back breadths with a deep puff and narrow ruffles.  Velvet overdress and sleeveless basque; silk sleeves and vest.  Bonnet of silk and velvet, trimmed with feather and flowers.

Figure 6 - Walking dress of gray Cashmere.  The front breadth is trimmed with plaitings; the back breadths with three ruffles.  Cloak made of heavy cloth the color of dress, trimmed with velvet and fringe.  Gray felt bonnet, trimmed with velvet and feather blue inside.

Figure 7 - Echarpe of black gros grain ribbon six inches broad, attached to a waistband of the same material, and held in place by a clasp, as shown in our illustration.  The two ends are richly embroidered.  The flowers and stems are worked with purse silk, the natural color, in satin, overcast, knotted stitch, and point russe.  A heavy fringe five inches deep completes the echarpe.

Figure 8 - Echarpe of blue corded ribbon, attached to a waistband of the same material, and trimmed with black beaded insertion and lace.  The large bow is clasped by a passementerie agraffe.

Figures 9 and 10 - Blue steel aigrettes for bonnets and hats.

Figure 11 - Jet arrow for the hat or the hair.

Providence Athenaeum

Second Side
Figures 1 to 5 - The Virgile headdress, with comb. This simple morning headdress consists of torsades of hair fastened up with a comb, patented by M. Virgile, a Paris hairdresser. Fig. 2 represents the right side of the coiffure, and Fig. 4 the left side; Figs. 3 and 5 show the manner of arrangement.  First, part the two portions of hair which are to be waved or crêpe, then fasten in the comb at the back by means of a strand of hair, which should be twisted around and around.  If there is sufficient natural growth, it is used for the torsades that cross the interlace between the teeth of the comb.  But when the natural growth of hair is scanty, false torsades are slipped into the teeth of the comb.  A long curl is added at the back of each ear.

Figure 6 - Under-waist of cambric muslin, trimmed with tucks put on in points, edged on each side with a narrow edging.

Figure 7 - Jacket for girl of five years, made of gray cloth, scalloped and braided with black braid.

Figure 8 - Fancy bow for the hair, made of plain pink and figured silk, with a small white wing, and steel buckle and arrow in the centre.

Figure 9 - Cape made of French muslin puffs, divided by lace insertion, and trimmed with muslin ruffle, edged with lace.  Fraise around the neck, colored ribbon bow fastening it.

Figure 10 - Chemise for young lady: the yoke formed of lengthwise tucks, with insertion put on in scallops below it.

Figure 11 - Waist for ladies' dress; trimmed with Titan braid in rows, graduated both in the back and front; the sleeves are trimmed to correspond.

Figure 12 - Linen collar, trimmed with narrow braid; cravat of colored silk, trimmed to correspond.

Figure 13 - Velvet necklet, ornamented with jet, and jet locket hanging from it.

Figure 14 - Silver waistband, formed of medallions joined with chains.

Figure 15 - Cravat scarf of blue silk, with ends of Valenciennes lace inserted, and a row of lace edging it all around.

Figures 16 and 17 - Habit shirt and sleeve, with double ruffle of plaited muslin around the throat, a wider ruffle around the wrist.

Figures 18 and 19 - Front and back view of gymnastic costume for a girl of seven years, made of striped woollen goods, and trimmed with braid and buttons.

Figure 20 - Linen cuff, with frill.

Figures 21 and 22 - Habit shirt and sleeve of the fashionable shape, made of linen, edged with lace.

Figure 23 - Corset cover, made of Nainsook muslin, formed of lengthwise puffs, divided by worked insertion; the neck and sleeves are trimmed to correspond.

Figures 24 and 25 - Front and back view of dress for girl of ten years, made of brown serge.  The skirt is plain, trimmed with tabs on each plait, bound with braid; basque bodice, sash bows and ends in back.

Figure 26 - Bonnet of blue velvet, trimmed with ribbon, feather, and spray of pink roses.

Figure 27 - Hat of gray felt, trimmed with gray velvet and feather.


On Fashions for February
The little folks claim our space and attention first this month. We have had so much to discuss in the way of fashions for the older home members, that they have not had any very lengthy space devoted to them and we really have given so many designs for children's clothing as to leave but little for us to tell; but our readers seem to think they would like us to devote some space to chatting about their darlings, so we will endeavor to find something new to talk about.

Brown is the fashionable color for children's clothing this winter.  Dark seal and nut-brown shades are chosen, and appear in the bonnet, wrap, sash, and stockings.  Where white dresses are still worn by the little ones, these are the stylish accessories to them; when dark dresses are worn, the entire costume is brown.

As always, the full chitchat can be read in the below attachments.

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